Lahore, the Capital City of Punjab
With a population of more than 2.5 million, Lahore is
Pakistan's second largest city. It
occupies a choice site in the midst of fertile alluvial plains.
Ptolemy's "Geographia",
written about AD I50, refers to it as "Labokla" and locates
it with reference to the Indus,
the Ravi, the Jhelum and the Chenab rivers. The city next crops up in
literature in connection
with the campaigns of the Turkish dynast Mahmud of Ghazni against
the Rajas of Lahore
between I00I and I008. Around this time it established itself as
the capital of the Punjab
and thereafter began to play an important and growing role as a centre
of Muslim power and
influence in the subcontinent. Its heyday was the Mughal era from
the early sixteenth century onwards and, as Mughal power
began to decline in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries,
Lahore suffered a concomitant period of ignominy and political eclipse.
It was here, at the
beginning of the nineteenth century, that the Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh
declared himself
Maharajah of the Punjab and allowed his troops to desecrate many of the
city's beautiful
Islamic shrines- including the Badshahi Mosque which was, for a while,
converted into a
powder magazine. By the time British occupied Lahore in I849, one
writer moved to describe
the city as 'a mere expanse of crumbling ruins'. Happily, this
was an exaggeration and today
the great buildings laid down by the long-vanished Mughal emperors may
be seen in much of
their original splendour. All the adverse influences since then seem to
have been washed
away, like sediment carried off by a flood, leaving behind the
fundamental character and
beauty of this old Islamic settlement. Fittingly, it was here in I940
that the Muslim League
made its first formal demand for the establishment of a Muslim
homeland. A towering and
graceful monument, the Minar-e-Pakistan now stands on the site of the passing
of the Pakistan
Resolution. Nearby, the massively fortified walls of Lahore Fort speak
eloquently of the
centuries of passing history that they have witnessed. The fort antedates the
coming of Mahmud
of Ghazni in the eleventh century, was ruined by the Mangols in I241, rebuilt
in I267,
destroyed again by Timurlane in I398 and rebuilt once more in I421. The great
Mughal
emperor Akbar replaced its mud walls with solid brick masonry in I566 and
extended it
northwards. Later Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb all added the stamps of
their widely
differing personalities to its fortification, gateways and palaces. The fort
encloses an area of
approximately thirty acres and it is possible to spend many hours wandering there,
lost in
contemplation of times gone by, trying to reconstruct in your imagination a way of
life that the
world will never see again. The buildings within its walls are a testament to
the gracious
style of Mughal rule at its height, in which every man knew his place and
courtly behaviour had
been refined into an elaborately startified social code. Much of the
architecture reflects this
code. From a raised balcony in the Diwan-e-Aam, or Hall of Public
Audience, built by Shah Jehan in I63I, the emperors looked
down on the common people over whom they ruled when
they came to present petitions and to request the settlement of
disputes. Wealthier citizens and
the nobility were allowed to meet their emperors on a level floor in the
Diwan-e-Khas, the
Hall of Special Audience-which was also built by Shah Jehan, in I633. While
the Hall of
Audience are characterized by their strict functionality, other buildings
raised under Shah
Jehan's patronage are styled in a more imaginative and fanciful mood. Of
these the Shish
Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, which stands on the fort's north side, is
by far the most splendid.
It consists of a row of high domed rooms, the roofs of which are decked
out with hundreds of thousands of tiny mirrors in the fashion of
the traditional Punjabi craft of "Shishgari" (designs
made from mirror fragments). A fire-brand lit inside any part of the
Palace of Mirrors throw
back a million reflections that dizzy the eye and seem like a
galaxy of far-off stars turning in
an ink-blue firmament. Another magnificent remnant of the Mughal era,
also partially
andalized in the late eighteenth century by the invading Sikhs, is the
Shalimar Garden
which stands on the Grand Trunk Road about eight kilometers to
the east of the old part of
Lahore. "Shalimar" means 'House of Joy' and, in truth, the
passing centuries have done nothing
to detract from the indefinable atmosphere of light-heartedness and
laughter that characterizes
this green and peaceful walled retreat. A canal runs the entire 2,006
foot (6II meters) length
of the garden and from it 450 sparkling fountains throw up a skein of
fresh water that cools and
refreshes the atmosphere, making this a favourite place for afternoon
walks for the citizens of
modern Lahore.
Lahore is rightly regarded as the cultural, architectural and artistic
center of Pakistan; indeed,
the city is so steeped in historical distinction that it would be
possible to spend a lifetime
studying it without learning everything that there is to learn.